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Fishing Guide · Gear & Technique
Wahoo spend most of the day below your spread. A planer is the simplest way to get a bait down to them — and the fast trolling speeds wahoo want are exactly what makes a planer work.
8 min read · David Rose · Gear Guide
Most offshore spreads are built for the surface. Flat lines, riggers, maybe a shotgun โ every bait running in the top few feet of water, because that is where we can watch them work. It is a comfortable way to fish and it catches plenty of fish.
It also leaves most of the water column empty. Wahoo will hold twenty, forty, sixty feet down and never come up to look at what you are dragging. Getting a bait to them is not complicated, but it takes one deliberate piece of gear and a rig that survives being pulled down there.
That piece of gear is a planer. Here is how to choose one, how to rig it so you are not hand-lining fish at the boat, and how to run it at the speeds wahoo actually want.
The principle
Pelagic predators are built to attack upward. Their eyes sit high on the head, angled to pick a silhouette out against the light above. Their bodies are built to accelerate vertically from below. A wahoo will charge up through the water column to crush a ballyhoo without hesitating.
What it will almost never do is turn and dive to chase something beneath it. Down is where prey escapes, not where it gets eaten.
So the bait needs to be above the fish, and a surface spread already gets that part right. The problem is distance. A wahoo holding at sixty feet has to notice your bait before it can decide to come up for it, and sixty feet is a long way to ask a fish to see through — further still in bright sun, or when the water is carrying any colour at all.
Dropping a bait to forty feet does not change the geometry. It is still above the fish. What it changes is how far that fish has to detect it — twenty feet instead of sixty. You are not putting the bait somewhere new so much as putting it close enough to be worth reacting to.
Pro tip
If you are marking fish on the sounder but not getting bit, check the depth of the marks before you change lures. A spread running six feet down over fish holding at fifty is not a colour problem.
Depth
There is no single number, but there are useful defaults. Wahoo relate hard to structure and to temperature breaks, and they use more of the water column than mahi or sailfish do. Over a ledge or a wreck, baits between twenty and sixty feet will usually out-produce the surface.
Three things push them deeper: bright sun, clear water, and pressure from boat traffic. Three things bring them up: low light, a colour change or weed line, and bait pinned near the surface. Read those before deciding how much of the spread goes down.
1
Early and late, overcast days, or bait showering on top. Flat lines and riggers already cover this.
2
The default productive band over most structure. A #4 or #6 planer, or a heavy trolling weight.
3
Bright midday sun, heavy pressure, or fish marking deep. Where you end up, not where you start.
The point is not to put everything down. It is to stagger — two or three baits on top, one below — so you cover layers instead of guessing at one. A staggered spread also teaches you something: when the planer rod goes off three times running and the flat lines stay quiet, you have learned where the fish are and can move the rest of the spread to match.
Planers
A planer is a small metal or plastic diving plane that pulls your bait down as the boat drags it forward. Water pressure against the angled face drives it under. When a fish strikes, the planer trips and releases, so you fight the fish rather than the plane.
Worth being clear on terminology, because the two get confused constantly: a planer dives. A planer board runs baits out sideways from the boat and is mostly a freshwater tool. For wahoo, you want the diving kind.
The angled face is the whole mechanism — water pressure against it drives the bait down.
The advantage over other depth tools is simplicity. No mounting, no cable, no electronics, nothing to fail at the wrong moment. Buy the planer, tie it in, run it. The trade-off is precision: a planer runs at whatever depth its size and your speed dictate, and you adjust by changing planers or changing speed rather than dialling in a number.
Sizing
Planers are sized by number, and the number roughly tracks how deep they pull. A #2 or #4 will get a bait into the twenty to forty foot band at normal trolling speeds. A #6 or #8 goes considerably deeper and pulls considerably harder — hard enough that it needs its own dedicated rod rather than sharing a rack with flat line gear.
Start shallow and work down. That rule comes straight out of the way wahoo feed, and it is the single most useful thing to know about sizing a planer.
A bait that is running too shallow is still above the fish, which means it is still in play — they can come up to it, and that is exactly what they are built to do. A bait that is running too deep is underneath them, and they will not turn around and dive for it. Erring shallow costs you very little. Erring deep takes the bait out of the game completely, and you will never know it happened.
So begin with the smaller plane, a #2 or a #4, and step up only when something tells you to — fish marking deeper on the sounder, bright midday sun, a lot of boat traffic working the same piece of structure. A #4 handled well also beats a #8 that nobody on the boat wants to clear.
Deployment order matters more than people expect. Put the planer bait out first when setting up and bring it in last when clearing. It is the line most likely to tangle everything else if you get the sequence wrong, and it is the one you least want to be sorting out with a fish on.
Pro tip
Wahoo have teeth that will part straight monofilament without slowing down. Whatever depth you are fishing, the terminal end wants seven-strand wire. The planer gets you the bite; the wire gets you the fish.
The catch
Traditional inline planer fishing has one real drawback, and it shows up at the worst possible moment.
With the planer rigged directly in the line, you reel until the planer comes up to the first guide on the rod. It cannot pass through. Everything beyond that point — often the last fifty feet or so, with the fish still on the end of it — has to be hand-lined in. You end up pulling line by hand, with a green wahoo a few yards off the transom, at exactly the point in the fight where you have the least margin. It is how fish get lost and how hands get cut.
Two rigs get around it.
The planer clips into the line while you are fishing and comes out when you no longer want it there. Once the planer reaches the rod, you unclip it, set it aside, and carry on fighting the fish on the rod as normal. You keep the simplicity of a straight inline planer and lose the hand-lining at the end of it.
The bridle lets the planer come out of the line once it reaches the rod, so the last fifty feet is fought on the reel.
The planer runs on its own heavy rod and its own line. Your fishing line attaches to the planer line with a clip that slides down it — or a rubber band, depending on the rig. When a fish strikes, the clip releases or the band breaks, and the planer is out of the equation entirely. From the moment of the bite you are fighting the fish on your own line, with nothing in between.
It is more gear and more setup than a bridle, and it costs you a rod holder. What you get back is a fight with nothing to hand-line and nothing to clear at the boat.
Two lines, one connection. When fish hits, rubber band breaks, the planer stays on its own rod and the fish is yours to fight.
Pro tip
Whichever release you run, set the tension for the bait and not for the fish, and test it at the dock. Too tight and the strike will not trip it; too loose and the drag of the bait alone will pop it every time you turn.
Tackle
This is where most people get into trouble. A planer under load pulls hard — harder than the fish will, in a lot of cases — and light tackle simply will not cope with it.
Short, stiff, heavy action. A 5–6 ft stand-up rod rated well above your flat line gear.
A 30–50 class two-speed. The low gear matters more here than line capacity.
Heavy mono or braid to the planer, with a long leader from the release back to the bait.
Dedicated, angled outward so the planer line clears the rest of the spread on a turn.
If you are running the separate-line setup above, this rod is carrying the planer and nothing else, so you can go heavier still — it never has to fight a fish. The rod you actually hook up on can then be normal wahoo gear rather than something built around dragging a plane through the water.
Speed
Speed and depth are linked, and the relationship runs in your favour here: the faster you pull a planer, the harder it dives. That is the opposite of most depth tools, and it is why the planer suits wahoo fishing specifically. The speeds wahoo want are the speeds a planer works best at.
For ballyhoo behind a planer, six to eight knots is the productive window. For cigar minnows, slow to four or five. High-speed wahoo trolling at ten to fifteen knots is a real technique but a different setup entirely — heavy lures on wire, not natural baits, and not what a standard planer rig is built around.
We went deeper on speed by itself in finding the perfect trolling speed.
Pro tip
On a turn, the inside lines slow and drop while the outside lines speed up and rise. With a planer in the water that swing is exaggerated. Make your turns wide.
It comes up often enough to answer directly. A downrigger is the more precise tool — you set a number and the bait fishes at that number — but it works best trolled slowly. Push it to wahoo speeds and the ball blows back, the cable angles out, and true depth ends up well above what the counter reads.
That is why the two tools sort themselves by species. King mackerel are slow-trolled and stack in tight bands, so downriggers earn their keep in the kingfish fleet. Wahoo are trolled fast, so wahoo are planer fish. You will meet plenty of anglers running downriggers for kings and very few running them for wahoo.
Rigged and ready
Getting the bait down is the easy part. Keeping it swimming true once it is down there under pressure is what turns a deep line into a hooked fish.
The part everyone skips
Everything above solves one problem: getting a bait to a depth and getting the fish back without a fight at the transom. None of it solves the problem that shows up next.
A bait under a planer is pulled through the water at far more pressure than one running on a flat line, and that pressure is exactly what exposes a marginal rigging job. A ballyhoo that looks fine skipping on the surface will roll, spin, or lie on its side once it is being dragged at forty feet. And a spinning bait forty feet down is a spinning bait nobody on the boat can see. You will troll it for an hour and never know.
That is where TrollTrue lures earn their place in a deep spread. The keel weight is moulded into the lure body and sits in the same optimal position on every rig, so the bait tracks upright under load instead of depending on how well the pin was set. Rig it once, drop it deep, and it swims the way it did at the transom.
The rigging matters as much as the lure. Seven-strand wire handles the teeth, and the two-step rigging goes on fast enough that re-baiting a planer line does not cost you twenty minutes of fishing time.
Bottom line
Stagger the spread, start shallow and work down, and rig the planer so it comes out of the fight. Then make sure the bait is still swimming when it gets there — because forty feet down, nobody is going to tell you it isn't.
Your offshore partner
TrollTrue lures and seven-strand wire rigging hold a natural bait upright and tracking — on the surface or forty feet down behind a planer.
Too shallow still fishes. Too deep puts the bait under them, where they will not go.
A bridle or a separate planer line, so you never hand-line a fish at the boat.
Moulded keel weight and seven-strand wire, so the bait tracks and the teeth do not win.
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Species & Technique
Species & Technique